(Backyard Gardener - Photo Illustration - MetroCreativeConnection)

Hello Mid-Ohio Valley farmers and gardeners! Many local schools are starting this week as Summer is almost gone. I hope everyone squeezed in a summer vacation before classes began.

We all enjoy the colorful flowers of plants which bloom in late summer and fall. If you would like to enjoy some of those flowers next year in your landscape the time to plant them is now.

I recommend selecting flowering perennials which have a long blooming period and keep performing into the fall. Bee balm , Russian Sage, Black Eyed Susan’s and are just a few perennials which will add some color for many seasons to come.

This week let’s talk about selecting and planting shade trees. During the dog days of summer we can all appreciate the importance of shade trees. On a hot August afternoon, a good shade tree will give you some relief from the midday hot summer sun. On a hot day the first parking spots which are taken are near shade trees.

Many homeowners around the valley, especially if you are building a new home or recently have purchased one, are going to plant trees in the landscape. Trees have many advantages including providing shade, beautification, used as wind breaks, preventing soil erosion and creating boundary lines and wildlife habitat.

Many homeowners plant trees to provide shade to cool homes during the summer months. Shade trees that are properly located can cut summer utility bills by 20% or more. For morning shade, plant trees on the southeast exposure of the house.

For afternoon shade, trees should be planted on the southwest exposure. Deciduous trees (those that lose leaves during the winter) allow the sun to warm the house during winter and shade it during the summer months. Depending on the ultimate size and arrangement, only one to a few trees may be required to provide shade for an entire structure or outdoor living space.

Shade trees are also helping to clean the air. Leaves on trees absorb carbon dioxide, and filter pollutants from the air. In addition to catching airborne dust and dirt they give off oxygen. If you live in the city, they absorb sound, and can create a buffer between you and a busy street.

Do not make shade tree or other landscape tree planting decisions lightly. This plant will likely become a permanent part of your property’s landscape. Trees can enhance the beauty and value of your home, but trees planted in the wrong place can cause property damage and become a detriment rather than an asset. Planning the location and species of a tree will ensure that the tree will be an asset and not a hazard or a nuisance.

Take time to carefully plan what species of trees are planted near the house and pay attention how close they are planted, not only for structures but remember water lines, sewer lines and electric.

Remember, you are most likely planting a small, 6-8 foot young tree that may mature into a beautiful 60-80 foot tall shade tree with extending branches. Countless old farm houses have silver maple trees planted less than 20 feet from the house. These trees have weak wood and many become dangerous when they are full size and must be removed. Tree removal can be very costly, upwards of a thousand dollars or more.

In addition to appearance, important selection criteria include hardiness, growth requirements, mature height and width, pest or disease problems, and maintenance needs. Trees need to fit the landscape plan. If planting several trees, be diverse in planting rather than planting only one species. Characteristics such as tree shape, size, flowering, colors and bark texture should also be considered.

No one tree is the perfect shade tree. Pin oaks, American lindens (basswoods), catalpa, several of the new red maple hybrids such as ‘Red Sunset’ or ‘October Glory’, hickory, river birch, tulip poplar, norway spruce and firs can make great shade trees.

One of my favorite recommendations for a shade tree for homeowners is ‘Autumn Blaze.’ Autumn Blaze is a variety of the Freeman maple, a cross between a silver maple and a red maple. It can also be used in cities as a parkway or street tree.

The Freeman maple cultivars combine some of the best features of both parents. This includes solid structure, attractive form and showy fall color from the red maple and adaptability and rapid growth from the silver maple. Oliver M. Freeman of the National Arboretum made the first controlled crosses between red maple and silver maple in 1933.

Autumn Blaze is truly a spectacular specimen and its leaves have a brilliant, red-orange color in the fall. Homeowners and landscapers both like the adaptability, dependability and vigor of this amazing performer. They also can grow up to 3 feet or more per year which is much faster than a red or sugar maple.

Armstrong, celebration, Marmo, Morgan and scarlet sentinel are a few more of these freeman maple varieties to select from. These trees can be planted to replace Elm and ash trees in the home landscape or for urban settings.

Avoid trees that are susceptible to storm damage, ones that are hosts to destructive insect and disease pests and those that produce an overabundance of objectionable seed or fruit.

For example, weeping willows and silver (water) maples are tremendously fast growers and will provide quick shade. However, both are notorious for weak wood and branches which can be dangerous. Sweet gums are also beautiful trees but in the fall can make a mess with their round shaped seed clusters.

There are numerous trees which make great shade trees, and also ones to avoid. Austrian pine (disease issues), box elder (weak wood), European white birch (insect problems), white and green ash (emerald ash borer), lombardy poplar (short lived), scotch pine (disease), silver maple (weak wood), willow (weak wooded and canker) and the ‘Bradford’ pear (weak-wooded and invasive) are species to stay away from.

Many of us overlook soil conditions when planting trees. Most trees most certainly grow best in a moist, deep, fertile, well-drained soils. Select trees that are best suited for the soil conditions on your property.

Many times, newly constructed homes have soil which have been altered and may have drainage, fertility and compaction issues. Soil fertility can easily be measured by taking a soil test. Organic matter can be improved with compost, tile can be added for drainage and fertilizers can boost nutrient levels.

A tree is a long-term investment so start with a high-quality plant. Trees 8 to 10 feet tall, either balled and burlapped or growing in containers, are usually the best buy. Species that are difficult to transplant may be more easily established if you start with smaller sizes. A reputable dealer will usually help select the tree and will guarantee it to be alive and healthy.

When selecting a balled and burlapped tree, make sure the root ball is moist and has not been broken, and that the soil is not cracking. When buying container-grown trees, check to see if it is rootbound (potbound). It may have trouble becoming established in the landscape.

Also, check the root systems and avoid trees with roots that have been allowed to dry, those with blackened root tips or those that have an inadequate root system.

Keep all types of trees (especially bare-root) moist at all times (but not in standing water) and avoid direct sunlight if possible prior to planting. In the case of baledl and burlapped and bare-root trees, the roots can be kept moist by “healing in” or covering the roots with moist sawdust or organic mulch.

A crucial step in planting trees is to dig the hole two to three times the size of the root ball. You can add some compost to the back fill but research indicates that the best use of organic materials when planting trees is to apply mulch. The mulch will eventually decompose into the soil, adding much needed organic matter.

For best results, apply compost to the entire landscape before you plant and afterward for several seasons, especially for new home construction. As the landscape matures, the leaves from the trees will increase organic matter in the soil.

The single best cultural requirement you can provide to a young tree is water during establishment. Do not apply large amounts of fertilizer until trees are established, usually after the first year. Properly selected shade trees will become an asset to your property and require less maintenance once established.

Contact me at the Wood County WVU Extension Office 304-424-1960 or e-mail me at jj.barrett@mail.wvu.edu with questions. Until next time, good luck and happy gardening.