(Backyard Gardener - Photo Illustration - MetroCreativeConnection)

Hello Mid-Ohio Valley farmers and gardeners! Happy first day of summer. We have just experienced the longest day of the year (for sunlight) as the Summer Solstice occurred at 10:57 p.m. on Wednesday, June 21. The Solstice marks when the Sun reaches its highest and northernmost point in the sky for the northern half of the globe.

Work continues in the garden. Ample rain has provided a good opportunity to side-dress fertilizer to our tomatoes and peppers in addition to sweet corn. It’s also important to scout for insect and disease issues, and of course, the battle against weeds continues to ensure a great crop this season.

Many backyard gardeners are looking for a shorter season crop to produce a nice yield for fresh eating and preserving for winter. Look no further than summer squash.

Summer squash is great choice for the garden. There are many varieties to choose from and once they begin to produce, watch out! My favorite is zucchini, which we try to pick young and tender to slice in salads and stir fry and to freeze for use this winter. A word of advice: Do not plant zucchini unless you have lots of friends, neighbors and relatives that also like zucchini squash.

If you are limited on space, check out small, compact varieties such as “Venus,” “Spacemiser” and “Buckingham Patio.” Most summer squash grow on compact vines, in contrast to the sprawling vines of most winter squash and pumpkins. “Zephyr” is a local favorite (recommended from Master Gardener Marty Seufer) with a unique color and flavor.

Summer squash (Cucurbita pepo) is a warm-season crop that loves rich, well-drained soils with a pH of 6.0. Squash needs warm soil temperatures to germinate (around 70∂F). Seeds do not germinate well in cold soil. In the spring, do not plant this crop until after the last chance of frost has passed.

Some gardeners prefer to start seeds in containers and transplant in the garden, but direct seeding is usually successful as well. Consistent moisture is needed from the time plants emerge until fruits begin to fill out. Water plants at the root level. Overhead watering or using sprinkler systems can cause powdery mildew problems. Do not over-fertilize summer squash. Too much nitrogen can invite disease problems.

When discussing summer squash, we include yellow and zucchini squash. Most are compact bush-type squash which take up less space than vining types. Yellow summer squash includes straighneck and crookneck, while zucchini squash is green and straight.

Additional summer squash include patty pan or scallop, which is flat, round and usually white in color, as well as cocozelle or vegetable marrow, which looks much like zucchini squash.

We can still direct seed squash late into the summer because many varieties can be harvested about 55 days after planting. Plants need full sun, so seed in rows spaced 3 feet apart, ¢ -inch deep and 4-6 inches apart in the row.

When the plants are in the one to two true-leaf stage, thin the plants to 12-15 inches apart, selecting the most vigorous seedlings. Squash can also be planted in hills 3-4 feet apart within the row. Place two or three seeds in each hill.

Squash varieties can be either open-pollinated or hybrids. The hybrids will tend to be more disease resistant and higher yielding, but open pollinated varieties such as “Black Beauty” are still planted for their flavor.

Recommended zucchini squash varieties include “Senator,” “Elite,” “Seneca” and “Tigress.” Recommended yellow crookneck varieties include “Dixie,” “Medallion,” “Supersett1,” “Prelude II” and “Sundance.” Recommended yellow straightneck varieties include “Early Prolific,” “Lemondrop,” “Goldbar” and “Multpik1.”

You need to consider some important tips when growing summer squash. It matures quickly, only needing five to seven days from flowering to maturity in hot weather. You need to pick squash every other day in hot weather for improved quality.

Squash does have some insect and disease enemies, including the squash vine borer and powdery mildew. If insecticides are needed for the vine borer, spray or dust the plant stems at their base.

Start treatments when vines begin to run or when the first adult borers are detected. Repeat in seven to 10 days. Two applications help manage most squash vine borer adults. The best management strategy for powdery mildew is to plant disease-resistant varieties.

For optimum quality, harvest while fruits are tender and still have a shiny or glossy appearance. When growing conditions are favorable, harvest the crop daily or every other day.

Harvest crookneck and straightneck varieties when fruit is 1¢-2 inches in diameter. Harvest zucchini when fruit is 7-8 inches long and scallop types when they are 3-4 inches in diameter. Do not leave large fruit of summer squash on the plant because this will inhibit the development of additional fruit. Store summer squash in the refrigerator.

Looking for more information? Check out our WVU Extension Gardening page at extension.wvu.edu/lawn-gardening-pests/gardening. Contact me at the Wood County WVU Extension office at (304)-424-1960 or at jj.barrett@mail.wvu.edu with your questions. Until next time, Good Luck and Happy Gardening!