(Backyard Gardener - Photo Illustration - MetroCreativeConnection)

Hello Mid-Ohio Valley farmers and gardeners. A hard frost hit us again this week as temperatures dipped into the high 20’s degree F. Put another log on the fire as many of us dug out the winter jackets.

A little information on pruning. Extension has always recommended the ideal time to prune most trees is late winter dormancy (March). However, new research is saying the optimum time to prune green wood or living branches is in late spring and early summer. This timing promotes the quickest and most effective recovery of pruning wounds because this is when the cells are most active during the growing season.

Late summer and fall is still the time to AVOID pruning trees. They are preparing for dormancy and dropping leaves. Pruning at this time can promote a late flush of new growth, making trees susceptible to winter injury and delaying dormancy on some. Late winter or early spring is still a good time to prune most trees, especially fruit trees and small fruits.

Another note on pruning shrubs. Someone called the office last week about spring flowering shrubs. Spring bloomers such as lilac, forsythia, viburnum and spirea develop flower buds the previous growing season (old wood). DO NOT prune spring bloomers in the fall. Prune them shortly after they are done flowering.

If they are pruned from late fall through winter, flower buds will be removed and there will be little to no blooming next spring, which most backyard gardeners will not like. Other than rejuvenation pruning (cutting a shrub back to 4 to 6″ tall), wait until after early spring blooming shrubs have finished blooming. Rejuvenation pruning is best done while the shrub is dormant, ideally just before new spring growth in March or early April.

At the CEOS Creative Camp, someone asked me about what to do with elephant ears after the growing season. Our farmhouse front porch has 3-4 growing every summer but we purchase new plants every year when we could save the bulb, store this winter and plant again next year.

Fall is when we plant hardy spring bulbs such as tulips and daffodils, but it is also the time to dig up tender perennials to save for next year. The most common garden plants in this category include gladiolus, caladium, tuberous begonias, canna, dahlia, and of course elephant ears (alocasia and Colocasia). Collectively these plants are called tender perennials.

Tender bulbs and bulb-like plants are not winter hardy if left in the ground or in containers on the porch. These tropical perennials are not hardy in our climate, but they do produce an underground bulb, root or other structure that can be lifted from the soil and stored overwinter. Dig them up as soon as possible and provide good storage conditions, so they can be grown again next year.

Many tropical plants grown for foliage rather than flowers are collectively called elephant ears by many backyard gardeners. Caladiums display brightly colored leaves, while alocasia and colocasia are grown for huge, waxy green leaves that are often highlighted with white, purple or another contrasting color.

Elephant ears make a statement in the garden or on the porch with their larger-than-life leaves. The type we plant at the farm is a Colocasia type elephant ear with huge heart shaped leaves. In addition there are also Alocasia and Xanthosoma types.

All of the elephant ear species are quite sensitive to cold temperatures and should be dug just before, or soon after, a light frost. Cut the stems back to 3 to 6 inches, then place the tubers in a warm location for 7-10 days to dry and remove surface moisture. To prevent excessive drying in storage, pack the tubers between layers of dry vermiculite, peat moss, sawdust or similar material in a strong box. Store at 50-60 degrees F.

Tuberous begonias should be dug just before frost. Cut the tops back to 2 inches and air dry the roots for two to three weeks in a warm location. Then, store in boxes, as you would caladiums, but decrease the temperature to about 45-50 degrees F.

Dahlias should be cut back to about 3-4 inches after the first light frost. Then, carefully lift the plants, leaving as much soil attached as possible to prevent breaking the fleshy roots. Because they are so susceptible to drying, dahlia roots should be air-dried for only a few hours or so. Then pack in boxes as you would caladiums and store at 35-40 degrees F.

Gladiolus should be dug when the foliage just begins to fade, usually after a frost. They produce underground, compressed-stem structures called corms. Use a spading fork to carefully lift plants from the soil and save any of the miniature corms (called cormels). If planted next year, these small corms will grow larger and eventually reach a size that will support flowers as well as foliage.

The corms should be cured before storing to help prevent disease from developing. Cure the corms for two to four weeks in a warm (about 75-80 degrees F) room where air can circulate around the corms. Once cured, the corms should be stored dry in a cold, but non-freezing, location, about 35-40 degrees F.

Canna are little tougher. They do not need to be dug until after a hard frost. Cut the tops back to 4 inches, lift with a spading fork and air dry in a warm spot for one to two weeks. Canna roots do not require covering and may simply be placed in shallow boxes. The roots are best stored at 45-50 degrees F.

Check bulbs monthly for signs of rot or excess drying. Any residual moisture and/or disease on the bulbs when they went into storage could cause problems down the road. Discard any bulb with mold or signs of rot.

If bulbs start to shrivel, this could indicate they are becoming too dry. Dunk them in water to rehydrate them. Repacking them for storage with dry sand, sawdust, vermiculite or peat moss may help reduce excessive drying.

Contact me at the Wood County WVU Extension Office (304)-424-1960 or at jj.barrett@mail.wvu.edu with questions. Good Luck and Happy Gardening!