(Backyard Gardener - Photo Illustration - MetroCreativeConnection)

Hello Mid-Ohio Valley Farmers and Gardeners. The grass is definitely growing as I see people out mowing the yard, or at least trying to. Mowing when it is too wet will only compact your soil and leave ruts in all the wet places. If you do have bare spots in the lawn, you can overseed those areas now with some good turf type tall fescues. Make sure you get good seed to soil contact (disturb soil with a rake and make sure seeds are covered with soil) and mulch those areas with some clean straw.

This week we’re talking Swiss chard, a great choice for the garden. Many say its flavor is similar to spinach. However, unlike spinach, it is slow to bolt and can stay in the ground right through the hottest part of the summer.

Swiss chard, of course, is not a product of Switzerland. Its origins are traced back to regions around the Mediterranean and most likely was developed from wild beets. It is in the same family as spinach and is very closely related to beets but does not form a root bulb. The veins on its leaves (called midribs) and its stalks (called petioles) come in a rainbow of colors.

Swiss chard prefers well-drained soils and full sun, although it will tolerate some shade. If you have low organic matter soils work compost into the soil before planting. It can be transplanted but direct seeding is the most common way to start chard. Plant the seeds an inch deep and four to six inches apart. Thin to about a foot apart when the plants are easy to handle. Rows should be 12 inches apart.

Most varieties are mature in 55-65 days. Common chard has green leaves and white petiole and midribs but petiole and midrib colors can vary. The ruby variety is especially stunning with its’ vivid red stem with broad dark green leaves. ‘Bright Lights’ is a 1998 All-American Selection which petioles can be white, yellow, gold, orange, pink, red or striped. ‘Fordhook Giant’ ‘Lucullus’ and ‘Rainbow’ are recommended varieties.

Swiss chard can be harvested when the leaves reach full size or any time after they form. Older leaves are often stripped off the plants first, allowing the young leaves to grow.

Question of the week: How do I get rid of ground ivy?

Ground ivy, also known as Creeping Charlie is a common perennial weed. As the name implies, it creeps along the soil surface, volunteering itself as a ground cover and finding its way into lawns, gardens, pavement crevices and flower beds. It thrives in shady, moist areas and can quickly crowd out more desirable turfgrass and flowers.

Ground Ivy is an evergreen, aromatic plant in the mint family. It can reach a height of between 12 and 20 inches. Leaves are about an inch across, opposite and heart-shaped, with scalloped edges. Clusters of two or more small lavender bloom appear on vertical stems from March through July.

A thick, healthy lawn is the first line of defense against ground ivy. Maintain good soil fertility wither proper fertilization and soil pH of at least 6.2. Shade, low mowing height, poor fertility and improper pH are factors that predispose a lawn to ground ivy invasion. Bare spots provide an opportunity for ground ivy to emerge. Using shade-tolerant turf grass species, opening up the canopy to allow more sunlight to penetrate and raising the mowing height to 3 inches will help keep the lawn competitive against ground ivy and other weeds.

Hand weeding or mechanical removal can be effective if all the stolons are removed for ivy. However, ground ivy is best controlled chemically by applying the herbicide Triclopyr in the autumn. Select a day when no rain is forecast for 48 hours following your chemical application. Read the product label carefully to determine application rates and follow manufacturers specific directions when using any pesticide.

Contact me with questions at the WVU Extension Office at 304 424-1960 or at jj.barrett@mail.wvu.edu. Good luck and Happy Gardening!