(Backyard Gardener - Photo Illustration - MetroCreativeConnection)

Hello Mid-Ohio Valley farmers and gardeners! We were a little on the dry side but that has all changed this week. Continual downpours since Sunday have brought several inches of rain and even flooding in areas around the valley. The forecast for the next few days is dry and sunny so we can catch up around the yard and in the fields with crop planting.

This week I am discussing selecting and planting shade trees. Many homeowners around the valley, especially if you are building a new home or recently have purchased one, are going to plant trees in the landscape. Trees have many advantages including providing shade, beautification, used as wind breaks, preventing soil erosion and creating boundary lines and wildlife habitat.

Many homeowners plant trees to provide shade to cool homes during the summer months. Shade trees that are properly located can cut summer utility bills by 20 percent or more. For morning shade, plant trees on the southeast exposure of the house. For afternoon shade, trees should be planted on the southwest exposure.

Deciduous trees (those that lose leaves during the winter) allow the sun to warm the house during winter and shade it during the summer months. Depending on the ultimate size and arrangement, only one to a few trees may be required to provide shade for an entire structure or outdoor living space.

Shade trees are also helping to clean the air. Leaves on trees absorb carbon dioxide, and filter pollutants from the air. In addition to catching airborne dust and dirt they give off oxygen. If you live in the city, they absorb sound, and can create a buffer between you and a busy street.

Do not make shade tree or other landscape tree planting decisions lightly. This plant will likely become a permanent part of your property’s landscape. Trees can enhance the beauty and value of your home, but trees planted in the wrong place can cause property damage and become a detriment rather than an asset. Planning the location and species of a tree will ensure that the tree will be an asset and not a hazard or a nuisance.

Take time to carefully plan what species of trees are planted near the house and pay attention how close they are planted, not only for structures but remember water lines, sewer lines and electric.

Remember, you are planting a small, 6-8-foot young tree that may mature into a beautiful 60-80 foot tall shade tree with extending branches. Countless old farmhouses have silver maple trees planted less than 20 feet from the house. These trees have weak wood, and many become dangerous when they are full size and must be removed. Tree removal can be very costly, up wards of a thousand dollars.

In addition to appearance, important selection criteria include hardiness, growth requirements, mature height and width, pest or disease problems, and maintenance needs.

Trees need to fit the landscape plan. If planting several trees, be diverse in planting rather than planting only one species. Characteristics such as tree shape, size, flowering, colors and bark texture should also be considered.

No one tree is the perfect shade tree. Pin oaks, American Lindens (Basswoods), Catalpa, several of the new red maple hybrids such as ‘Red Sunset’ or ‘October Glory’, Hickory, River Birch, Tulip Poplar, Norway Spruce and Firs can make great shade trees.

Avoid trees that are susceptible to storm damage, ones that are hosts to destructive insect and disease pests and those that produce an overabundance of objectionable seed or fruit. For example, weeping willows and silver (water) maples are tremendously fast growers and will provide quick shade.

However, both are notorious for weak wood and branches which can be dangerous. Sweet gums are also beautiful trees but, in the fall, can make a mess with their round shaped seed clusters.

There are numerous trees which make great shade trees, and also ones to avoid. Austrian Pine (disease issues), Box Elder (weak wood), European White Birch (insect problems), White and Green Ash (Emerald Ash Borer), Lombardy Poplar (short lived), Scotch Pine (disease), Silver Maple (weak wood), Willow (weak wooded and canker) and the ‘Bradford’ pear (weak-wooded and invasive) are species to stay away from.

Many of us overlook soil conditions when planting trees. Most trees most certainly grow best in a moist, deep, fertile, well-drained soils. Select trees that are best suited for the soil conditions on your property.

Many times, newly constructed homes have soil which have been altered and may have drainage, fertility and compaction issues. Soil fertility can easily be by taking a soil test. Organic matter can be improved with compost, tile can be added to improve drainage and fertilizers can improve nutrient levels.

A tree is a long-term investment so start with a high-quality plant. Trees 8 to 10 feet tall, either balled and bur lapped or growing in containers, are usually the best buy. Species that are difficult to transplant may be more easily established if you start with smaller sizes. A reputable dealer will usually help select the tree and will guarantee it to be alive and healthy.

When selecting a balled and bur lapped tree, make sure the root ball is moist and has not been broken, and that the soil is not cracking. When buying container-grown trees, check to see if it is rootbound or “potbound”. It may have trouble becoming established in the landscape.

Also, check the root systems and avoid trees with roots that have been allowed to dry, those with blackened root tips or those that have an inadequate root system.

Keep all types of trees (especially bare root) moist at all times but not in standing water. Avoid direct sunlight if possible, prior to planting. In the case of B & B and bare-root trees, the roots can be kept moist by “healing in” or covering the roots with moist sawdust or organic mulch.

A crucial step in planting trees is to dig the hole 2-3 times the size of the root ball. You can add some compost to the back fill, but research indicates that the best use of organic materials when planting trees is to apply mulch. The mulch will eventually decompose into the soil, adding much needed organic matter.

For best results apply compost to the entire landscape before you plant and afterwards for several seasons, especially for new home construction. As the landscape matures, the leaves from the trees will increase organic matter in the soil.

The single best cultural requirement you can provide to a young tree is water during establishment. Do not apply large amounts of fertilizer until trees are established, usually after the first year.

Properly selected shade trees will become an asset to your property and require less maintenance once established. Contact me at the Wood County WVU Extension Office (304)-424-1960 or e-mail me at jj.barrett@mail.wvu.edu with questions. Good Luck and Happy Gardening!