Trending
Hello Mid-Ohio Valley farmers and gardeners! It is hard to fathom August is here. The summer is slipping away as families head out on vacation before the first day of school.
August 8th marks the start of the West Virginia State Fair in Lewisburg. Lasting until the 17th, this annual celebration of West Virginia agriculture is a fun trip to see all the livestock animals, fair food and the entertainment. This month gardeners will continue to harvest sweetcorn, melon, squash and of course a valley favorite green beans.
Green beans that are young, tender and firm can be ready for the table or for canning at home fairly quickly. Using the proper canning equipment and methods will help ensure that home canned green beans are safe for later use. Green beans are a low acid food and must be processed in a pressure canner. The temperatures reached in a boiling water bath canner are not high enough to destroy the dangerous botulism spores, so using a pressure canner is the only safe method to can green beans.
Unfortunately, August means summer is winding down and fall is approaching. Many cruciferous vegetables such as broccoli, kale, Brussels sprouts and cauliflower can be transplanted for a late fall harvest. Collectively, these vegetables are referred to as cole crops. Cauliflower (Brassica oleracea) is a cool-season vegetable which in West Virginia can be grown as a spring or fall crop. Cauliflower grows best in cool growing environments and is more sensitive to warm weather than broccoli. The optimal temperature for development of the curds, or head, is 60 to 70∂F.
Cauliflower's 2000 year history can be traced back to the Mediterranean region, especially northeastern Turkey. In the U.S., most cauliflower varieties have been selected for their formation of a fairly large compact head (also called the "curd"). The cauliflower head is actually a closely packed arrangement of undeveloped flower buds. Surrounding the curd are ribbed, coarse green leaves that help shield this part of the plant from sunlight.
However, in many regions of the world, including China, cauliflower is "loose curd" which would be more similar to broccoli. The two vegetables are very closely related.
Cauliflower has gained in popularity as a replacement for both mashed potatoes and pizza crust in the latest low carbohydrate diet crazes. This vegetable is a nutrient powerhouse which provides vitamin C, vitamin K and folate. It also contains many types of glucosinolates, which are sulfur-containing compounds. Research has proven these compounds provide a variety of health benefits to our cardiovascular, digestive, immune, inflammatory, and detoxification systems.
There has always been a debate over cooked versus raw vegetables and the availability of nutrients. Recent research suggests there may be loss of water-soluble nutrients during cooking, but there can also be increased bioavailability from the freeing up of nutrients that remained inside the cells in raw cauliflower but got released during cooking. So, no matter if you choose raw cauliflower or cooked, it is still good for you.
Cauliflower varieties come in multiple colors, including white, purple, green and orange. For white cauliflower, varieties such as 'Fremont' are available that are not as dependent on blanching to get good white color and quality. For an interesting visual addition to your garden, try 'Romanesco' varieties which are green and form a spiraled head with a pointed tip.
There are many varieties to choose from which will mature in about 45-75 days. WVU Extension recommends 'Snow Crown' (48 days), 'Cheddar' (68 days), 'Amazing' (75 days), 'Violet Queen' (65 days), 'Apex' (71 days), 'Candid Charm' (65 days), 'Steady' (65 days) and 'Graffiti' (70 days).
Cauliflower grows best in well-drained soils with a pH of 6.0 to 6.5. Avoid planting in fields that had other cole crop plantings in the last two years. Cauliflower is usually established as transplants instead of sowing seed. In the spring, six to eight-week-old transplants can be planted by mid-April for spring and early summer cauliflower. Sequential plantings of cauliflower can be made through May which ensure crop success if the one or more plantings fails.
Each transplant should have four to five leaves at the time of transplanting, and should be fertilized weekly. Approximately one week before transplanting in the spring, the transplants can be hardened or "toughened up" by exposing the plants to ambient or outside conditions for a few hours each day.
For the fall crop, most cauliflower varieties should be transplanted by early August. Delayed planting will often result in "blank plants" or "buttoning" with limited head production. Cauliflower can have boron deficiency symptoms if the soil pH is greater than 7.0 with low organic matter. Boron can be applied at 0.5 ounces per 1000 square feet. Additional fertilizer requirements are approximately 100 pounds of nitrogen per acre (2.3 pounds per 1000 square feet) with phosphorus and potassium fertilization based on a recent soil test.
When planting cauliflower, space transplants 18 to 24 inches apart with 36 to 48 inches between rows. Cauliflower can be grown on black plastic mulch to warm soil in spring or white plastic mulch to cool the soil in fall. Organic mulch, like straw and hay, can also be used as it will cool the soil and reduce soil moisture evaporation. Drip irrigation may be necessary to supplement rainfall through the growing season. Remember, cauliflower is more sensitive to swings in temperature and water availability.
When the head is golf to tennis ball size (two to three inches in diameter), it needs to be protected from sunlight. This keeps the head white, protecting it from sunscald and turning yellow and off-flavored. Tie the outside leaves loosely over the head with a strip of old nylon stocking or rubber bands. Some gardeners use spring-type clothespins to tie the cauliflower leaves up.
Most recommended varieties of cauliflower are self-blanching, which means the leaves fold over the developing head to keep it from getting discolored from the sun. However, even some self-blanching cultivars may need to have the outer leaves tied to shade the curds when the head begins to develop.
Most colored cauliflower varieties can tolerate warmer temperatures and don't need to be blanched. While cauliflower can tolerate light frosts, row covers may be needed to protect against hard freezes.
For many gardeners, growing cauliflower may be challenging. Unlike broccoli, which produces side shoots for additional harvests, there is only one opportunity for a good crop with cauliflower because the plant produces only one head. Cauliflower must be grown at a continuous, steady rate through its entire life, from seedling to harvest. Heat stress may prevent the cauliflower head from forming as well as lack of moisture.
Pests of cauliflower include snails, slugs, harlequin bugs and caterpillars. Lightweight row cover or insect netting can be placed over the plants in early spring or late summer to protect the crop from insect damage. In addition, organic pesticides, such as Dipel (Bt) or Spinosad, can be used effectively for worm control.
Cauliflower is harvested when the heads are compact and the outer curds begin to separate from the head. Cauliflower is usually a maximum of 6 inches in diameter when fully mature. Over matured heads have a "ricey" look and are often discolored. One to two whorls of leaves are harvested with the head to protect it. Harvesting should be done in the coolest part of the day to reduce field heat. Cauliflower can be stored at 32∂F for up to three weeks.
Contact me at the Wood County WVU Extension Office 304-424-1960 or e-mail me at jj.barrett@mail.wvu.edu with questions. Good Luck and Happy Gardening!